Settings! They are more important than you think!!!!

We all know the stone is the centerpiece of the ring or piece of jewelry.  The whole purpose of the setting is the showcase the stone – whether it is a diamond or other gemstone – in the most beautiful way possible.  Although the setting is the frame to the masterpiece – if we are going to make analogies here – which we are, since I just did, the quality and beauty of the setting can make or BREAK the piece.

So, “how do I ensure I have a beautiful setting?” you ask.  Here is your answer: make sure it’s handmade, NOT factory made.  This is not to say that all jewelry that is machine or factory made is bad – I have seen beautiful pieces made from wax molds, just beware of the mass produced settings. This can be more challenging than you might think.  Stores often say they make “custom” settings when really they just solder together different pieces of pre-made settings.

There are three different types of factory made settings: CAD/CAM (Computer Assisted Design/Computer Assisted Manufacturing), die struck (metal molds), and wax molds. Setting made this way can turn out bulky looking.  In the process of making the settings bubbles can form in the metal. To cover up this eyesore these settings are often heavily engraved. Also, since these settings are made in bulk, the diamond or stone for the ring is chosen AFTER the setting is complete.  The jeweler then just solders a top onto the setting that will fit whatever size stone is chosen.  The result can look fragmented and the flow of the piece is sacrificed. Also, depending on the top the jeweler chooses the integrity of the ring can be compromised and the possibility of your diamond falling out increases...yikes!

Handmade settings – real handmade settings – have a cohesive look.  Bubbles do not develop in the metal when it is hand stretched and formed so the settings are denser, yet much more refined and elegant.  The level of detail that can be involved is on a whole different level.

A wise jeweler knows that, “you can tell how well made a piece of jewelry is by looking at the back of it.”  If the detail and beauty of the back of the piece is as nice as the front, someone put work, time and love into it. You should be able to see the back of your stones from the back of the piece – these little holes let the light shine through your stones.

Choose the setting you love, just make sure you give yourself time to look around and explore.  Once you have seen a handmade setting you will be able to see a major difference between factory and handmade.

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White Gold vs. Platinum: The Battle of the White Metals

When buying jewelry there comes a point when you ask yourself what is “worth it” and what is “not worth it”? The answer often boils down to personal preference, but there is one aspect that is just plain smart to spend a little more for: get a platinum setting, not a white gold one. 

For rings- especially rings that you will wear everyday- white gold is the pits. THE PITS. Here is why: gold is naturally GOLD (duh).  To make white gold, natural yellow gold is rhodium plated (this process makes it white). As you wear your ring and it rubs against your other fingers, the white rhodium plating wears off and your ring starts to turn yellow.  You will have to get it re-rhodium plated every year or so FOREVER, or until you get wise and get a new platinum setting.

Platinum is a white metal.  It will always be white, it will never change color.  It is also the strongest and purest metal. This is important for those with allergies to certain metals.  Since gold is always alloyed with other metals (unless it is 24 karat gold- which jewelry isn’t usually made of because it is way too soft) if you have an allergy to those metals, platinum is the way to go. 

Yellow gold is a different story. Since that is its natural color, it will always remain yellow- so if you are a yellow gold kind of person- go for it! The only thing I recommend is that you if you are getting a white diamond in your yellow gold setting- have just the diamond set in platinum to keep it looking as white/colorless as possible. See a yellow gold and diamond ring here.

The price difference between platinum and white gold for something like an engagement setting is miniscule in the scheme of things- so it is WELL worth it to go with platinum and save yourself the money and trouble of re-rhodium plating.